I see myself being a little girl, from 5 and on, with my dad, paddling out into the waves and he’s teaching me how to surf.
I see us, like two water babies, and I’m learning skills I wish I only learned from him.
I’ve been watching a lot of surfer movies lately.
Classics and documentary. And I wonder.
What about this keeps calling me?
And what keeps me away?
Ciara Ashley Johnson 